I went surfing on Thursday after work and I think tomorrow (holiday Monday) might be worth a trip up for a sunset surf. I have been realizing lately what a stress reducer my time in the water is - specifically at Sombrio beach. In the water I do not really think about anything except the waves, or the water, or the birds, or the whales (that I may or may not see). I guess I might think about my technique and my wave count and who is around me in the water, but not tons. And I do not want to talk too much and usually, the others surfers do not either. A nod, a smile, a little, hey hows it going, usually does it.
And then when I get out and I reflect about my time in the water from the beach, looking back at the breaking waves that I was just in, I think how clear my head is. How every worry that was on my mind earlier had just melted away. That it is all OK. Walking up the trail back to the parking lot, gazing up at some of the oldest protected trees on the island I feel so light, so happy. I feel in touch with nature, in touch with myself that I almost I feel giddy. I feel reflective and young. I feel like I could do anything, handle any situation. To be honest, retrospecitively, it is almost like I find life's meaning there. That somewhere in my subconcious I have discovered the secret to life, my life anyway. And I am in a state of devine peace. It sounds "too much" maybe, but it is a true feeling that I have and I want to make myself accountable for it. To remember it and treasure it. I do have a strong belief and have for along time that nature is my god. One day I will write on that one and try to articulate what that means.
I know now for sure where I will go at any time in my life where I feel like I "cannot take it anymore". It's funny cause I have been surfing at Sombrio for 8 years now, and the feeling of comfort and love and peace gets stronger and stronger every time I am there. It is way to beautiful, the trees are way too big. You feel like a small thing in this world and maybe that is why your worries vanish into thin air, because in the big picture up there, they do not mean anything. I can understand why people have just wanted to live there and have lived there. I think it is a special place, with special powers.
I think I am very lucky that I have found a place that I can escape the city to go to; arrive in less than two hours and know without a doubt I will leave with a complete sense of utter healing.
I actually built Sombrio.
ReplyDeleteYou're right, it gets better every time, every year that passes the moments there are all the sweeter.
are you god?
ReplyDelete